Last Friday a surf was long overdue, with most people working on Fridays I was lucky Ciaran had a bit of time off.
When your travelling for up to 2 hours to get in a surf and then get back home in time for other stuff its hard to get to the sea when all conditions are on que.
Wind was a light offshore, swell was a decent size with a 12 second wave period, now the tide... I arrived and it was close to mid tide with a very dumpy looking wave greeting me. Ciaran was running an hour late which gave me the opportunity to walk the beach looking for the best spot and study the wave a bit.
It turned out best that Ciaran was on a go slow; the extra hour wait allowed the tide to push in a bit and gave us a decent session without too many dumping waves catching us out.
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