A Few Thoughts

We’ve travelled far and wide as a people. Emigrated in our millions over the centuries, inhabited hundreds of nations, and made ourselves at home. Yes the Irish are renowned for having their roots in many of the great nations around the globe and our travelling continues to this day.

Without travels to new frontiers and visiting various terrains things become stale, stagnant and unimaginative.

But in recent years one particular community has noticed a trend, something that ruffles feathers among many but inspires others. The Irish surf community has seen an influx of foreign surfers to our shores, visitors in search of that elusive secret break, undiscovered wave and quiet haunt.

As with every activity, every line of business, sport and thought, things evolve; they get bigger, develop into something better than was originally imagined. Sometimes this can be good and inescapably at times it can have negative repercussions.

Popular adventures and activities become more popular; it’s inevitable. How do you control the growth of something that is pure and admired solely because of this purity? Is there a stage that it out grows itself, self destructs and regresses? Or should we try to control it in the first place; evolution is a natural beast, Who are we to interrupt, control or steer it?

Irish surfers have been to Hawaii, Australia, Bali, to name but a few: explored new frontiers surfed the biggest and the best but maybe there’s something that’s inherent in every Irish person and those that stay here long enough know; the biggest and the best is right here at home.

You step from the water and many of the accents are not Irish but British, American, Australian, etc. Is this a good or bad thing? If one was to consider it a bad thing could that be classed as discriminatory or is that something outside of the surfing community because of the ethics and principles upon which it is based. Animosity can be found between our very own countrymen, within the Irish surfing community; it may not be dominating or to the frontier but it is there, hiding amongst us but sticking its head out every once and a while. This conflict exists in the minority between some beginners, newbies or referred by many as Kooks and a select few of the more experienced surfers, the guys who are surfing many a year on their door step or what they now call their door step.

These ‘superior surfers’ are relatively small in numbers but can be loud at times, look at some of the surf forums online and you won’t have to search too far. I'm not referring to the pro’s here but the guys who think they are purer than others, know more about surfing and believe that it is they and not new comers that are more appreciative of the meaning behind surfing and carry out the activity to its purest form. But did these guys fall out of the bed with a great knowledge and ability to surf or did they gradually learn like everyone else?! Many of their points deserve credence for instance surf etiquette but this is something that is acquired over time and learned through both experience and research. People need time, make mistakes and need to be given a chance. It’s the continuous offenders that need to be alerted to their uninviting behaviour.

Can the surfing community as a whole help with this situation and help teach and educate beginners of surf etiquette? I believe so. Many surf schools give advice to their beginners before entering the water but maybe more might make a difference. Surf shops should have a quick guide on the wall, as many of us know surf shops have not seen such an influx of beginner surfers as in the last few years. Lastly how about signs at the beginner beaches, this is common practice in many other countries; only last year Manly Beach, Sydney embraced the idea.

I must say that I have met very little animosity between surfers over my short few years in the surfing community. I have noticed sometimes harsh reactions or opinions on some surf forums but not in the real world. There have been a small few out there that have slated this site or one of my photos on other surfing sites but I guess that comes with the territory; it’s hard to please everyone and you just have to get on with it! However, my experiences over the last few years have been mostly positive and for the most time I've had a blast.

I have been lucky to meet and be in contact with many of the top surfers in Ireland and the world and all have been extremely courteous and down to earth. I think at the end of the day we are all doing the same thing, albeit at many a different level. But we are doing it for the same reason; it gives us a sense of energy, an invigorating rush that can’t be met and a closeness with the sea and a life on the edge where you are truly at the will of mother nature.

As I have said we have travelled to warmer countries on surf holidays and thought nothing of it. But the thought of numerous visitors coming to our breaks consistently worries many and even vexes some. Why are we allowed to venture to other surf locations but not reciprocate the same welcome to our travelling visitors? Is it because we are small in numbers and don’t represent a crowd when spread out across the world? So this would mean that only a certain percentage of visitors are allowed to our shores; surely it can’t work like this.

I, as most surfers, do not like big crowds in the water, its simple more people means less waves or more competition for the best waves but I do like the atmosphere surfers bring to an area; so where is the compromise?

Maybe this thought of increasing numbers coming to Ireland crowding our breaks is just that, a thought and may never happen to any great scale. Given the inconsistency of our waves over many of the warmer months, the cold temperatures and harsh conditions in the winter and the inaccessibility of many of the surf spots we may just be a bridge too far for many of the travelling surfer…